By: Himsiringdao Hapila
Vekuvolu Dozo is a young loin loom weaver from Nagaland.
Vekuvolu learned weaving from her aunt at the age of 18. She says, “It is important in our culture to know how to weave on a loin loom as a ritual in our tribe involves gifting a shawl to the groom by the bride.”
Lion loom is one of the most primitive forms of weaving. Each strand of yarn is handpicked to form beautiful geometric patterns, using designs that are rooted in tradition, culture and mythology.
· Who’s the first person to introduce you with a handloom?
My mother’s sister taught me how to weave at the age of 18, right after which I got married. It is important in our culture to know how to weave on a loin loom as a ritual in our tribe involves gifting a shawl to the groom by the bride.
· How long have you been weaving? OR How old were you when you were
introduced to weaving?
I had to discontinue weaving as my husband who is a teacher had a transferable job and I travelled along with him. After a gap of 9 years I started weaving again. My best friend inspired me to take up weaving as a regular art practice and ever since then I have continued to weave for over 11 years. I am 38 years old now.
· What are the products or goods that you produce? How much time does it require to make a product?
I make home furnishing products – Table runners, cushions, placemats etc. For a cushion it takes around15-20 days while a table runner takes 4-5 days on an average. It can take more time too as it depends on the intricacy of design and the number of colour variations being used in the product.
· How much does it cost?
Runner – 1800 – 2000/-
Cushion – 700/- to 900/-
The prices may differ with the complexity of the design
· Can you tell me about the texture, fabric and color you use? How do you choose the design for a specific product?
I am currently using cotton yarns procured from Assam or local markets. They are pre dyed, fine quality cotton yarns.
Design Process – I derive inspiration from my natural surroundings. Even while I watching a TV show or a film, if something inspires me, I try to reinterpret the design by memory in coherence with the traditional Naga motifs.
I also make motifs that have symbolic meanings pertaining to out tribe’s culture.
· What made you fall in love with handloom? Or Why do you choose handloom as a profession?
For me weaving was a natural and must activity as a woman for recognition in my tribe; but I took it up professionally after getting encouragement from my best friend. She exposed me to the possibilities I could explore by weaving as a small artisan for business.
· Does your weaving reflect your culture and tradition?
Yes, Of course! As a tradition in my tribe, a woman must know how to weave on a loin loom. I truly believe that it is one of those practices that has helped this art form survive for so many generations. My textile designs reflect our culture and tradition even though I experiment with contemporary creations.
· How do you manage your time to weave in your daily lifestyle? Or is weaving a full-time job now?
My husband continues with his teaching work and is in Gorakhpur currently; while I am here with the kids and handling my own small business. It does get taxing at times with all the household work, responsibilities but I manage to weave every day.
· Who’s your biggest foundation/support that leads you to hold on handloom?
When I got associated with Antaran last year in July 2019 I got the biggest boost and motivation to continue loin loom weaving professionally. Apart from that my family and my sister who lives in Mumbai are my biggest strength.
· Where do you sell your products? And how did Antaran help you?
Before getting associated with Antaran, I sold my products in the local market. I now weave for orders that I get through Antaran Artisan Connect – a website where Artisans covered under Antaran programme are able to directly sell their products. I got a great support especially during the lockdown, when lot of my cushions got a phenomenal response and I made some very credible associations with the customers. I am now also receiving repeat orders.
Antaran has been instrumental in enabling me to be a small business entrepreneur -right from learning about design, yarn quality and orienting us on the importance of using sustainable methods when creating textiles, to a systematic exposure towards online business through social media. This journey has been an extremely fruitful one. Not only am I learning how to market and promote my work through Instagram but I am also learning details about hashtags, clicking pictures etc.
I am available on Instagram with the name Vekuvolu Dozo.
I am currently designing an exclusive range of home furnishing collection as a part of Special Collection that is up on preview now. The collection is inspired by stories of our tribal culture and been co-designed with help from Antaran design team. I also co-design with customers as per their choices.
· Younger generation are drifting away from handloom, do you think it will survive in future?
It is entirely dependent on us to sustain, innovate and bring a fresh value to the craft which is what will encourage the new generation to accept the art form and get good financial returns. It is important for people to understand the effort and the investment that goes behind each and every process involved in the craft.
· What’s your advice for the current generation for handloom?
My only advice to the current generation is that they must appreciate handloom and handwoven products. As this will certainly lead to more and more number of people shifting towards handmade artforms while also keeping the craft alive. It is also important for sustainability of mother earth.



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